Don't Get J-Axed: Finding the Right Jack Points on Your 2015 Subaru Forester
Hey there, fellow Subaru enthusiast! Ever found yourself needing to get under your beloved 2015 Forester for a quick oil change, a tire rotation, or maybe even tackle some more ambitious DIY project? It's a common scenario, and honestly, it's super satisfying to wrench on your own car. But before you go grabbing your floor jack with reckless abandon, let's have a serious chat about something incredibly important: jack points.
Seriously, knowing where to properly position your jack and, more critically, your jack stands, isn't just about avoiding damage to your car (which, let's be real, nobody wants!). It's about your personal safety, plain and simple. Lifting a vehicle incorrectly can have catastrophic consequences, from a bent frame rail to a car slipping off a jack and, well, you can imagine the rest. So, grab a coffee, let's get comfortable, and let's make sure your next DIY adventure under your Forester is a safe and successful one.
Why Jack Points Matter (and Why You Should Care)
Think of it this way: your 2015 Subaru Forester, like any car, has specific, reinforced areas designed to bear its weight when lifted. These are your designated jack points. They're usually thicker pieces of metal, sometimes with a pinch weld (that little seam where two pieces of metal are joined), or even a small, dedicated pad. Trying to lift your car from a suspension component, a plastic rocker panel, an exhaust pipe, or some flimsy piece of sheet metal is a recipe for disaster.
You could bend or crack a structural component, damage a suspension arm, or worst of all, cause the car to become unstable and fall. Nobody wants their trusty Forester looking like it lost a fight with a floor jack, right? Subaru engineers put those reinforced spots there for a reason, and it's our job to use them correctly. Trust me, a few minutes learning this now can save you a whole lot of headache, heartache, and money down the road.
Gathering Your Gear: What You'll Need
Before we even think about getting under the car, let's talk tools. You wouldn't go hiking without the right boots, and you shouldn't lift your car without the right gear.
- A Good Quality Floor Jack: Hydraulic floor jacks are generally best for stability and ease of use. Make sure it has enough lifting capacity for your Forester.
- Jack Stands (NON-NEGOTIABLE!): This is where your car will actually rest once it's lifted. Never, ever rely solely on a jack to hold your car up while you're working under it. I repeat: never. Always use at least two, preferably four, sturdy jack stands.
- Wheel Chocks: These go under the wheels that are staying on the ground to prevent the car from rolling.
- Gloves: Protect those hands!
- A Flashlight or Headlamp: Even in daylight, it can be dim under there.
- A Sturdy, Level Surface: This is crucial. Potholes, inclines, or soft ground are a huge no-go. Concrete or asphalt is ideal.
- Optional but Recommended: A Rubber Pad or Block of Wood: This can go between your jack and the pinch weld to protect the metal from bending or scraping.
Got all that? Good. Now, let's find those sweet spots.
Locating the Front Jack Points on Your 2015 Forester
Okay, let's get down to business. When you're looking at the front of your Forester, the main jack points for lifting one corner are going to be along the pinch welds directly behind each front wheel.
Crouch down and look underneath the car, just inside the rocker panel (that plastic or metal trim along the bottom edge of the door). You'll see a seam, a bit like a thin fin, running along the length of the car. This is your pinch weld. Subaru, like many manufacturers, usually reinforces specific sections of this pinch weld for jacking. Look for areas that appear slightly thicker or have small indentations or arrows molded into the plastic trim near the pinch weld.
You want to place your floor jack's lifting saddle (the part that actually touches the car) directly on this reinforced pinch weld section. If you're using a rubber pad, put it between the jack saddle and the pinch weld. Lift slowly and steadily.
Once the car is high enough, immediately slide your jack stand under the same general area on the pinch weld. You can place the jack stand just a few inches away from where the jack is, then slowly lower the car onto the jack stand. Make sure the jack stand's cradle straddles the pinch weld securely so it doesn't slip. Then, leave the floor jack gently supporting the car nearby as a secondary safety measure, but the weight should be on the jack stand.
Alternatively: The Front Subframe
For lifting the entire front of the car at once, some people opt for a central jacking point on the front subframe. This is generally a sturdy, flat crossmember located towards the front of the engine bay. If you choose this method, make absolutely sure you're lifting on a solid, flat part of the subframe, not a flimsy bracket, a steering component, or an exhaust pipe. This requires a bit more expertise and a good eye. If in doubt, stick to the pinch welds. If you do use the subframe, you'll still need to place your jack stands on the individual pinch welds behind the front wheels before getting under the car.
Pinpointing the Rear Jack Points
Moving to the back of your Forester, the situation is quite similar to the front. The primary jack points for lifting one corner are along the pinch welds directly in front of each rear wheel.
Again, get down and look for that reinforced pinch weld seam. It'll be just inside the rocker panel, similar to the front. Use your floor jack on this reinforced section, lift, and then place your jack stand securely on the pinch weld, lowering the car onto it. The same rules apply here: sturdy surface, slow lift, and never rely on the jack alone.
Using the Rear Differential as a Central Jack Point (Proceed with Caution!)
Now, this is a common practice for lifting the entire rear of an AWD vehicle like your Forester, but it comes with a huge asterisk: You must be absolutely sure you're doing it correctly and safely.
The rear differential, that pumpkin-shaped housing in the middle of your rear axle, can be used as a central jacking point. Why do people do this? Because it allows you to lift both rear wheels simultaneously, which is super handy for things like tire rotations or working on the exhaust.
Here's the critical part: You must place your jack's saddle directly on the sturdy, flat underside of the differential housing itself. Never, ever, ever jack on the differential cover (it's often thin sheet metal), the cooling fins, or any other protruding bits. This could cause serious damage to your differential or, worse, cause the car to slip.
If you choose this method: 1. Position your jack directly under the flat part of the differential housing. 2. Lift slowly and carefully. 3. Once the rear of the car is at your desired height, immediately place your jack stands under the reinforced pinch welds in front of each rear wheel. 4. Slowly lower the car onto the jack stands. Again, leave the floor jack gently supporting the differential as a backup.
If you're at all unsure about using the differential, or if your jack saddle doesn't seem to sit perfectly flat and securely on it, please, for your own safety and your car's integrity, just stick to jacking each corner individually on the pinch welds. It might take a minute longer, but it's infinitely safer.
General Safety Tips & Best Practices
Look, I can't stress this enough: safety is paramount. Here are a few final reminders before you get started:
- Always work on a flat, level, and firm surface. No driveways with a slope, no soft grass or dirt.
- Engage the parking brake before you start jacking.
- Use wheel chocks on the wheels that are remaining on the ground.
- Never work under a car supported only by a jack. Jack stands are your best friends here.
- Take your time. Don't rush anything. Slow and steady is the name of the game.
- Consult your owner's manual. Seriously, your 2015 Forester's manual has diagrams of the specific jack points. It's the ultimate authority!
- Give the car a good shake test once it's on the jack stands. Push on it gently from different angles to ensure it's stable before you crawl underneath.
- Tell someone you're working on the car. Just in case.
So there you have it! Knowing your 2015 Subaru Forester's jack points isn't just a pro tip; it's a fundamental safety practice for any DIY mechanic. With the right tools, a bit of knowledge, and a healthy dose of caution, you'll be tackling those under-car projects with confidence and, most importantly, safely. Happy wrenching, and may your Forester always stay firmly planted when it needs to be!